A word about forks:  The fork on a bicycle is the leading edge of your ride; if it is not in line it will track the bike so that you have two separate gyroscopic planes.  Your wheels will want to go their separate ways, especially on fast downhills, where a shimmy may be noticed.  My forks are made to an exacting standard through a three step alignment process that results in plus or minus 0.25 mm tolerance. I am very proud of that.

Both road & cross forks are raked in a low placed arc for that classic look and superior ride quality.

True Temper NCO tapered fork blades are standard for raked forks.  $380-450
Reynolds 853 fork blades now available for road and cross.
KVA Stainless fork now available. $500+

 

 TO ORDER A CUSTOM FORK CLICK HERE

 

Traditional New England Segmented Fork

1″ & 1 1/8″ Threadless

    • Road: Regular length 368 – 372 mm (axle to crown) fitted & drilled for recessed brake bolt.
      Reynolds 853 blades $525  True Temper blades $500
    • Trail Poacher: Regular length 390 – 410 mm (axle to crown) disc tab
      Reynolds 631 blades $425  Reynolds 853 blades $500
    • Cyclo-Cross: Regular lengths 390  - 395 mm cantilever
      True Temper $400
    • Reynolds 853 Cyclo-Cross: Length 390 – 410 mm cantilever (raked)  $475

Cyclo-Cross Details:
One piece cantilever posts are standard.
Paul’s Racer & Racer M brake post positioning optional.
Disc tab is Paragon’s universal with my Alien Ears housing guide on the back of the leg for a clean look.

Mountain Fork
    • Available up to a length of 430 mm axle to crown either disc or cantilever.  For mountain forks longer than 430 mm I will offer the Paragon 15 mm through axel as this makes a stronger fork for longer lengths up to 470 mm.
    • Paragon Wright Bros dropout. $400
    • Traditional scalloped drop out. $450 (This is the dropout for restoration forks.)

Mountain Fork Details:

Flat dropouts & scalloped end caps.
Cantilever mounts are Paragon Machine Works 3 piece brake bosses.
Disc tab is Paragon’s universals with my Alien Ears housing guide on the back of the leg for a clean look.  Through axel forks include a DT 15 mm axel skewer $550

 
Custom Forks
  • All forks are available in custom lengths usually at no extra charge.
    All forks can be made for 26″, 650B or 700c wheel sizes.
  • If you would like both cantilever & disc mount, there is a charge of +$65
  • Low rider mounts are +$65
  • Road and cyclo-cross forks with eyelets are +$30
    (Not all drops start with eyelets.)
  • All forks are wet paint in gloss black. If a different color is desired add an additional $45 per color.
  • TO ORDER CUSTOM FORK CLICK HERE
TSL Fork – SON SL
Boy is this an exciting piece of equipment from SON Germany!

An outstanding, clever system that allows for a generator hub and no disconnecting of wires for wheel removal.  Perfect for the serious Brevet rider and very convenient for the world traveler.  A special set of dropouts act as the electrical connection for the wiring which is run inside the fork leg. I take it a step further and run the cable up the steerer tube to a custom topcap switch. With a wired taillight we can exit the bottom of the steerer or behind the stem depending on frame style.  Both solutions are very clean and unobtrusive.

NAHBS 650B Mixtie with SL FORK, SON SL Hub and custom Topcap Switch. Tailight is wired.

NAHBS 2012 Mixtie 650B SL Fork SON SL Hub

A better explanation from Peter White the US distributor, our source and a purveyor of many other nifty bicycle parts in his online catalog Peter White Cycles.

“The right side axle end isolates the surface that faces the dropout from the axle center. The axle itself carries the ground side of the electrical circuit. The dropout face on the right side of the hub carries the power side of the circuit. You can easily tell the difference between the right and left side by looking at the axle end cap. The right side cap is wider than the left side cap. The right side cap must only be inserted in the fork on the right side of the bike. With the disc version of the hub, the disc is always on the left so there’s never a chance of mounting the hub backwards. Also, the printing on the hub flange is only on the right side of the hub shell. In the dark, you can feel the printing on the right side of the hub, so you know which way to install your wheel.

At night without lights, if you mount the wheel backwards in the fork you get a short circuit and your lights will not work. Simply reverse the wheel and all is well, no harm done to either lights or hub. Even riding at high speed on long descents with the wheel backwards will cause no damage. There would only be increased drag due to shorting the output of the hub, but that drag would still be less than if you were using a sidewall dynamo.”
Peter White Cycles

SL Iglefork  $550

SON SL Dropout internally wired to steerer  $550

Made to order 1 1/8″ only for switch.

Hub/Wheel prices available on request:  Christopher@Iglebike.com